HOLYBELLY CAFÉ & AN AUTUMN STROLL IN PARIS
I love Paris. I think it a lot and I say it a lot, to the irritation of everyone around me. I’d like to live there but I’m really quite petrified and not all that sure what I would do for work. My grasp on the language rests at basic and whilst I can get by on vacation, it’s down to an enthusiastic smile combined with an earnest attempt at parlez’ing in French and then Parisians meeting me half way – or more usually, three quarters of the way. It certainly isn’t because anyone in Paris actually understands my embarrassing mis-pronunciations and poorly spoken grammar.
My first 2014 trip to Paris was a flying one; the Mr was there for work so I wasted no time in booking myself onto the Eurostar and drawing up a little solo itinerary.
We checked in to our hotel and this was the wonderful view...not too shabby.
The following morning...
One of my favourite adopted Parisians is David Lebovitzand I follow him avidly, attempting to recreate the arthe creates for his books and blog and it was through his social media that I stumbled across Holybelly. Last week David posted a link to their website & blog post debating that old adage 'the customer's always right' except, in Holybelly's mind, the concept is as outdated as the belief that every croissant you'll find in Paris is a great one.
In particular they were responding to a recent customer, Jennifer, who had emailed with what she called ‘constructive criticism’ following a brunch she had there where despite enjoying the food and friendly service she took offence at being asked to take her post brunch tea in a take-out cup to free up her table for other waiting and hungry would-be customers. I'd never heard a restaurant owner so openly vocalise this stance as Nico essentially ‘broke up’ with Jennifer and refused to waver in Holybelly’s philosophy and essence.
Having worked for years as a restaurant server in the early noughties I understood his viewpoint but throughout my working life, a lot of my successes have stemmed from strong customer service and people skills. Knowing how to have an unhappy customer leaving with happiness and faith restored is a skill I find valuable in all areas of life so I found the attitude of the piece a little alien and despite Holybelly’s other rave reviews wondered what the experience of dining there would be.
After a good twenty minutes on their website and maybe ten seconds of reading the menu I had scrapped my moral high ground; Holybelly was where I want to have brunch whilst in Paris. Opening at 10 and operating a no reservation policy, I had planned to get there on Saturday as the doors were opening but seeing as punctuality is up there with speaking French in my list of non-skills, it was around 10.50 when I arrived; 50 minutes into weekend brunch service, surely the worst time to turn up and expect a seat. Combined with being alone, I wondered how I would be received but determined to eat there, stepped inside to an almost full (there was one table for two just vacated, every other table was heaving with delicious smelling food and bustling conversation) dining room.
Nico was at the counter as I walked in and he greeted me warmly. I asked if brunch was still being served, despite knowing the answer and he let me know it was and asked if I was by myself. Instead of turning me away, he and one of the female staff found me an armchair seat on its own at the back near an occupied sofa and let me know that if I preferred then I was welcome to wait for a seat at the communal table to come free. There was clearly no chance that I would be given the newly available table for two but I genuinely felt that they wanted me to be there and for me to have a good experience. I took the armchair, ordered a latte then was run through the specials and left to peruse the menu.
Once settled, the first thing I noticed about the Pinterest worthy dining room was the happy energetic buzz and I couldn’t help but think, as great as Holybelly is, it actually isn’t the kind of place you would sit for two hours dragging out conversation over that café au lait. In Nico's own words "one comes here to fill ones belly to the top with some delicious food, wash it down with a tasty brew, surrounded by loud music and rushing friendly staff and be on ones way" and that pretty much sums up the energy of the place. It felt reminiscent of Jika Jika, my favourite eatery in Bath – quality, full of spirit and amazing coffee (which in itself is a Parisian miracle).
I had the black rice porridge with fromage blanc & fruit and it was hands down one of the best breakfasts *I’ve ever eaten*. It was divine. Creamy, sweet, comforting, luxurious but still somehow healthy and virtuous.
Along with my latte and fresh apple juice I felt set for a long meander around the streets of Paris. The staff were super friendly, making sure every customer was happy and eager to give me tips for what to do while in the area (I had travelled from across town to get there and was in unfamiliar territory). At just after 12 I asked for the bill and a jasmine tea – to go of course – and was on my way, stuffed full, happy and ready to explore the city of lights. I really couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day and if you're in Paris, visit Holybelly, you won't regret it, just don't expect to stay there for two hours.
Definitely my new Paris favourite. I never quite worked out if they're American or Canadian (according to the world wide web, they're both) but happily everyone there fluently converses in English and French so for those like me, the language barrier is completely broken down.
Clear blue skies, bright sunshine and warmth on my shoulders, it felt like summer, I was blessed as I set off walking down to Canal Saint Martin, recommended by Holybelly staff...
Into the bustling streets...
To the indoor beauty that is Galleries Lafayette...
And a caffeinated pit stop at Le Bristol...
Over to the army museum...
To see my boy at work...
Whoops, not that one. My real life Mr was working on the Paris leg of the new Fury film's press junket and I managed to bag a press pass.
And so, in true Hollywood style, I'd like to thank Brad Pitt for his vision and dedication to this movie, for if you hadn't, I wouldn't have gotten to spend the weekend in my favourite city and have brunch in my now favourite eaterie Holybelly.
I'm already planning my next trip across the Channel...
HOLYBELLY
19 rue Lucien Sampaix
75010 Paris
France
http://holybel.ly/19 rue Lucien Sampaix
75010 Paris
France
